Here is the new stock to be used for the outline of the mesh. I weld the ends of the stock to a piece of scrap.
Next I cut 1/8″ grooves along the new stock. The mesh will sit in the groove.
Here you can see after I cut the grooves I bent the stock into the shape I need.
The grooves stay intact and hold the mesh nicely! This is the front.
Here is a inside view.
Before and after.
It was mainly the inside of the piece that was bothering me. I didn’t like seeing all those tack welds.
Here is the inside of the left rear set.
And this is the inside of the right rear set.
Front of the right rear set.
Front of the left rear set. The rear sets aren’t completely finished, but are %100 better than before.
So, I was working on the frame and just was not happy with the mesh accents on the rear sets. I like the look, but was never really satisfied with the way I had attached the mesh. The tack welds on the inside of the rear sets demanded too much attention.
I chopped off the old and set out to make a cleaner way of attaching the mesh. Now the mesh is basically framed in, instead of welded in. It makes for an much cleaner look inside and out. I was so hyped on the way the second attempt turned out!!
So I wanted a fender that only mounted on one side of the fork. The original design I came up with seemed good enough, after all there’s not much of a fender. While off loading the bike one day I heard the fender make a “tin can” sound. Needless to say that drove me nuts. So back to the drawing board I went. I made the front of the mount more robust. I knew I also needed to stabilize the rear of the fender. I made a detachable strut that wraps around the fork and mounts to the rear of the fender. I decided to wrap the strut in fiber glass to save weight. The fender now has the rigidity it needs to keep things quiet.
