1963 BSA | exhaust

  • I needed to go under the frame to avoid the chain.
  • I created the muffler mount using a 7/8″ slug in a 7/8″ hole I cut out.
  • The single mount kept the focus on the cool 12″ mufflers.
  • Looking clean from all angles.
  • This shows the right pipe crossing over to the left.
  • There was plenty of room to run the tube under the frame.
  • Exit out the right please. Looking good!

Well the time came to get the exhaust done. I found some really cool 12″ mufflers at Dime City Cycles online as well as a TC Bros DIY builder kit. The builder kit came with an assortment of bends and straights to get the job done right. And the high flow short mufflers look great and will sound amazing too.

I started by mounting the mufflers. If you don’t know where you want to end up how can you get there, I always say. I cut a 7/8″ hole in the frame. Then I cut down a 1.5″ length of 7/8″ solid round stock and drilled and tapped it. Each muffler came with it’s own mounting bracket. Since I wanted both mufflers on the same side I used one of the brackets to mount both mufflers. This allowed me to offset the mufflers with ease. After drilling a hole in the bracket between the mufflers I mounted my slug to the mufflers. Then I inserted the slug into the frame. This allowed me to make sure the mufflers were where I needed them to be. I tack welded the slug to the frame, then I removed the mufflers and final welded it in.

Now that I knew where I wanted to end up time to cut the bends in order to get there. I decided to set the mufflers on the right side of the bike because Joe, the customer, had mentioned he wanted to put a leather saddle bag on one side of the bike. So I thought I’d make some room for him. The exhaust kit from TC Bros came with everything I needed. I ran the left exhaust pipe under the frame just before the rear tire. I chose to go under the frame to avoid running into the chain. The left pipe used two 90 degree bends to get to the muffler. The right side pipe used a “U” bend cut in half and spun 180 degrees, which gives it a cool “S” look. Joe was having problems with the old exhaust scraping on turns. Well that problem is gone and the new exhaust makes room for a saddle bag, as well as has a custom clean look.

YZF600 | Banshee

  • The motor was pretty close to where it needed to be, it just needed cleaner hardware.
  • The 600cc motor was having some clearance issues.
  • The 600cc motor definitely needed more room.
  • I started with the bottom of the frame.
  • I bent new tubing, with plenty of room for the oil pan.
  • I cut out new bottom motor mounts out of 1/4″ plate.
  • The right side mount needed to be removable.
  • Here you can see the two piece right side mount.
  • The left side mount is also 1/4″ plate and could be stationary.
  • The on to the top rear mount.
  • I cut 7/8″ holes and inserted 7/8″ tube.
  • On to the top of the frame. There needed to be enough clearence to remove the larger motor.
  • Here you can see the removable right side outside motor mount. The engine comes out the right side of the bike.
  • The right side outside motor mount is stationary.
  • Over all it fit really nice! Looks mean too!

Well Elijah came to me with a cool idea, “my Banshee needs more power”. So he had already started roughing the motor into the frame. He needed me to make it solid and functional.

So stated out by making the lower frame rail giving me a solid base. The oil pan needed to have more room than the original motor, so that was pretty straight forward to make happen. Then I started making the engine mounts. Starting with the rear lower mount. The engine needed to be suspended in order for proper chain alignment. This was tricky. I left one of the motor mounts Elijah made in place, he had the alignment pretty close. While lifting the motor from below and suspending it from above, I managed to make the right side motor mount which also needed to be removable so the engine could be taken in and out. It was quite the balancing act. Once that was done it was on to the left side mount which could be stationary. My chain alignment was good and the rear lower mounts were done.

For the rear top mount I was able to line it up with the upper frame. I drilled a 7/8″ hole in the frame and used 7/8″ tubing to fill it and make the motor mounts. I had to sleeve the 7/8″ tube with 7/16″ tube in order to have a snug fit with the engine hardware. This also helped fine tune the alignment. I drilled holes in the 7/8″ tube and plug welded the 7/16″ tube inside of it. So at this point I have top and bottom mounts done.

I then switched over to the top of the frame. I needed to connect the front and back halves while still having room for the larger engine and room to remove and install the motor. I attached the new tubing using slugs to create a lap joint and placed gussets and cross-members in oder to strengthen the new geometry.

Finally I needed the side motor mounts. The left side was to be stationary, because to engine comes out the right side of the bike. I started with the left side making motor connecting points out of the 1″ tubing I was using for the frame. I bolted those the the motor. Once they were on it was simply connecting the points together and to the frame. On the right side of the bike the side mount needed to be, you guessed it, removable. So I made mounts out of 3/4″ solid stock and drilled and tapped them. These got welded to the frame. Then from there it was just like the left side, time to connect the dots.

1963 BSA | tail light

  • The bolt was previously set in crooked.
  • I re-tapped it so the new bolt is straight.
  • 3/4″ piece of cold rolled for the mic mount.
  • I noched it out to fit the curve of the mic.
  • It contoured well, with a nice fit.
  • I welded the mic mount to the rear of the fender.
  • It came out nice.
  • The contoured mount also locks it in place.

The BSA came with a microphone as a tail light. It was mounted on the side of the bike near the rear axle. It is a ’50’s area mic from what I can tell, I do know it looks sweet! I mounted it so that the actual mount is shaped like the base of the mic, which locks it into place. Since it is on a ridged frame there is going to be plenty of bumps tying to shake it loose. I think it looks cool as is but once it’s lit it will really shine! 😉

1963 BSA | Fender Mounting

  • I needed the tabs to contour the rib in the fender.
  • I heated the tab up and bent it around a piece of round stock.
  • It worked out so the raised part of the tab was able to be welded to the frame.
  • I bent additional tabs and tapped and welded them to the inside of the fender.
  • This is where I was able to weld to the frame.
  • Starting the fender strut.
  • I set it up in the vise so I could bend the tab around the round stock.
  • I welded only the back side leaving the front clean.
  • I bent some flat strap to the shape of the fender. This is where the strut will bolt to the fender.
  • Meeting the strut ends to the fender mout.
  • I added some extra weld then ground it down for a nice finish.
  • Final fender mounted.

Custom mounting of a Wassell style rear fender and making a custom fender strut. I found this Fender on the TC Bros web site. Joe, the owner of the bike, like it so I needed to get it mounted. The original fender was a flat fender which didn’t look bad but the ribbed fender really matches the BSA gas tank. Also the Wassell style fender is not as wide as the flat fender was, so it contours the tire better for a tighter cleaner look. Making the front mounting tabs I matched the ribbing of the fender. I backed the fender with tabs that I drilled and tapped for easy removal and installation of the fender. I made a strut for the back portion of the fender. I bent, drilled, and tapped flat strap to mount to the fender. Then I used 3/16″ solid round stock to join the fender to the frame of the bike. I bent tabs around the stock for a clean simple look.

https://www.tcbroschoppers.com/

Raaj’s 1982 GS750

  • Subframe must go.
  • Subframe gone.
  • Slugs I made to attach new steel for subframe.
  • New subframe.
  • New shock mounts.
  • Inset taillight pocket.
  • Skeleton for seat.
  • Seat skinned.
  • The section I used from an old tank to make the rear cowl.
  • Fitting the pieces.
  • Under tail skin.
  • Handle bars I made.

My customer Raaj, found me online and wanted to have a cafe racer built to commemorate his fortieth birthday.  He didn’t have any needs other than make it cool. So thats what I did. He picked the colors and wanted a ’78 on the bike somewhere for the year he was born.

I totally chopped off the subframe and redesigned it raising it about 2″. This put it in line with the bottom of the tank, making for a clean line. Also I recessed the integrated LED tail into the frame for a clean look. The GS750 was more of a highway cruiser to I lowered the front end to level out the bike and give it a more aggressive look. Raaj liked the wind screen so I made a head light bracket that would make the wind screen easily removable and allow the bike to look good with it on or off. I made the handle bars, I like to use 1″ tube and then step it down to 7/8″ to accommodate the controls. This gives the bars a more robust look. All new wiring, a small Shorai battery all fit under that seat pan I made for the bike. The upholstery was done locally. The rear cowl I peace together out of the back half of a gas tank which worked out well. I shortened the front fender, resealed the engine and deleted the are box for pod filters.