So how do I attach to the frame? I welded one side of each tab to a piece of 1″ solid stock, then heat and bend.
The 1″ stock has the same radius as the frame rails I’m attaching to.
I end up with two nice radiuses on my mounting tabs.
They hug the frame perfectly.
I made some threaded slug inserts to bolt my new tabs to.
This is a photo of a slug insert welded in.
Now, what am I going to put my feet on? I started by bending up some 3/4″ solid stock.
At this point I have the tab bolted to the frame. I am going back and forth from the bike to the vise, making one bend at a time.
This is what I end up with. I made each bend contouring to the motor as well as ending up where I think my feet nee to be.
I am always a fan of reusing parts. I think these were passenger pegs off a sportster.
I just needed the ends, and the pegs.
These are some of the pieces I machined for the moving parts.
Here are all those small parts assembled and attached to the base. Also I used another tab to mount the rear master cylinder.
I then fabricate and add the rear bake foot control and brake linkage.
On to the left side. I decided to mount this tab on top of the tube, to clear the primary pully.
Using the same process as before, I bend up a base. I have to contour to the motor, align with the other side, and clear the primary pulley.
The second one is always harder then the first.
At this stage, I make sure everything alined.
Now that my base is in, I machine the moving parts for the left side.
I turn down an area for the clutch pedal to pivot on.
I trim down my base and fit up the new piece.
Here you can see the shiny part is where the clutch pedal will pivot.
I weld on the peg end and attach it to the base. Now for the clutch linkage and foot control.
I formed a tab over a piece of 1″ stock. The clutch linkage will attach to this.
I burn in a piece of 1/4″ stock and thread the end. The clutch linkage will bolt right up.
Lastly, I modified the pegs to better fit the foot grips I bought.
Here is the left side, clutch side, mid-control.
Here is the right side, brake side, mid-control.
I never really liked forward controls. So I set out to build some mid-controls. After letting it stew for about a week, I had a rough idea of how I wanted to attack “THE MIDS”.
I have to say, I am more than pleased with the result!! The foot controls feel so good!
I started out with a used fender off some kind of Harley. Then I chopped it, but something seemed unbalenced still. The fender struts!!
So I chopped them too!! I also added 1/4″ round stock to the edge of the fender, for aesthetics.
I attached the fender using these steel bungs that I cut, taped, and threaded out of 1/2″ round stock.
I was really stoked on the way the fender came out.
This is the fender I came up with for the ’58 Pan-Head. Reworking the struts was a good decision! I like how it still has a nostalgic Harley Davison feel, with a custom twist.
I started with a seat hinge. I mounted that to the frame first. Then I attached the hardware that was going to attach the seat to the seat hinge.
I then used a combination of solid round stock to make the seat frame. I weld and shape the round stock directly to the motorcyles frame. I do this in order to get the best fit possible.
Since it is a hinge seat the rear of the seat never gets latched. To ensure the seat doesn’t move around I made fingers on each side that grab the motorcycles frame.
Time to skin it!
I made the rear lip of the pan in the slip roll.
I then place the pan on the seat frame, and start roughing in the pan, working toward the final shape.
This is the final result!!
Sweet hinge action!!
Building on the bike leaves you with a sweet contoured, fitted custom seat pan.
Well, every bike needs a seat! This is how I make mine. I made a hinge seat that way I’ll have easy access to the oil tank at all times.
So I wanted a fender that only mounted on one side of the fork. The original design I came up with seemed good enough, after all there’s not much of a fender. While off loading the bike one day I heard the fender make a “tin can” sound. Needless to say that drove me nuts. So back to the drawing board I went. I made the front of the mount more robust. I knew I also needed to stabilize the rear of the fender. I made a detachable strut that wraps around the fork and mounts to the rear of the fender. I decided to wrap the strut in fiber glass to save weight. The fender now has the rigidity it needs to keep things quiet.
I started out by making some rough marks where I wanted to cut. At this point I’m just trying to get a idea of where the lip is going to be.
I made a rough cut with the plasma cutter. I cut around the gas cap mount in order to reuse it on another tank.
I cut out a shape I thought would work for the lip and added it to the back of the tank. Then I massaged the opening to fit. I then added the new gas fill opening in a new location. All that is left is the top.
I then cut out the top of the tank. A little shaping on the slip roll and it dropped right in. This is the tank all burned in and pressure tested for leaks.
This is a 05-06 Kawasaki 636 tank I had hanging around the shop. I bought the bike for parts. I used the majority of the parts on a KZ650 build. The 636 tank was not going to be used, so I figured mod it out and sell it.