I started out with the frame, a few raw materials (1” tube and 1” solid round stock) and the tail light provided by Charles.
Also, I am going to be welding up a few seams where Charles made some modifications.
I started out the project by making my bends.
The die I am using will not make a wide enough hoop. To work around this, I have to break up the bends, resulting in a unique “pitched” hoop instead of the “normal” cafe style hoop.
Once I am happy with my bends I assemble and weld the hoop pieces. At this point the hoop is together and test fitted.
Test fitment.
I look at everything to make sure the hoop is centered and looking good.
To connect the hoop I turn down the solid stock to make my slugs. My slugs go 1” into the sides they connect. Also, I plug weld as well as weld the seam for strength.
Here you can see the hoop welded in as well as the seams that Charles made.
I trace a cut an elongated oval, and radius it to the rear of the newly installed tail hoop. This will be the backing plate for the taillight.
Now for the “pocket”. I am using 20ga steel for the sheet metal work.
I bend my pocket around a .5” piece of solid stock. 180 degrees.
My backing plate and “pocket” fit nicely.
This is how they will fit together, but first I need to remove some unwanted material.
I used my backing plate to trace where I need to cut.
I place a .5” OD tube where the vise grabs in order to protect the shape of my “pocket”.
I am using a hack saw with a round carbide cutting blade on it. I chose this method of cutting because you can saw in any direction, but more importantly I cut all the way through allowing for even sides.
And I end up with a nice steel taco!!
Here I simply replaced the removed material with my backing plate.
Now I need to make some room in the frame hoop to accommodate the new “pocket”. This is where my plasma cutter goes to work.
Setting my pocket in for the first time and it’s looking good!
I look at the piece from all sides, making little adjustments, before welding it in.
Once welded, all that’s left is cutting the excess metal.
All trimmed up!!!
And in the end I am left with a sweet little tail light pocket!!
Ok, let’s put a rear hoop on this KZ 750 twin. Charles came to me needing a little work. He wanted a rear hoop and tail light installed on his bike. So I said, no problem! Charles was also wanting the tail light to be set into the frame.
I first started out concentrating on the rear hoop. Measuring the distance between the frame rails I knew it was going to be wider than my dies diameter. I have run into this in the past and found that making smaller bends and bringing them together to make the right size hoop is the answer. The side effect is more of a pitched shape to the hoop rather than the conventional U shape, which I dig. I attached the hoop with solid slugs that are plug welded as well as welded at the seam.
Now on to the tail light “pocket”. This is all sheet metal work and I’m using 20ga steel. I made what I call the “backing plate” first. I trace an elongated oval and cut it out. Then I radius my piece to the same curve of the new hoop. For the “pocket” I bend 20ga around a piece of .5” OD round stock, making sure it’s a 180 degree bend. Then using the “backing plate” I trace out the excess material to be removed. After it’s removed the backing plate will take its place. At this point the tail light pocket is made and needs a place to go. I cut out a section of the new hoop to make room for the pocket.
Once I weld the pocket in it’s just a matter of cutting the protruding material to leave a clean profile in all directions. The light will be contoured to the hoop and set in the pocket. Now, Charles has a sweet custom hoop and more over his tail light is set in the frame!! I dig it and so did Charles!!
I started by removing the seat and fender to find my cut line and start hacking!
Starting to look better already! I cut just before the 2nd to last crossmember.
Now the fender sits right where I want it. It tucked in real nice!!
Time to start on the seat pan! You can see I have the outer edge of the pan started here.
Once I had the outer edge I the proceed to build a skeleton structure. Also I make a mounting tab where the seat will attach.
Stage one complete!
OK, an Albuquerque local got ahold of me and asked if I could do some work on his ’81 Kz440. I said “hell yeah”!! Aaron had a list of things he wanted to do. I would say this is the first step. Here I was to shorten the subframe, shorten the rear fender, add a rear hoop, and make a custom seat pan.
I stopped the frame about mid-way over the rear tire, made a hoop, and burned it in with a slight angle. Next I was on to the fender. Reusing one of the original fender mounts I cut off the subframe, I moved it further in toward the motor and burned it in. This allowed me to use the entire rear fender while making it appear shorter. Once the hoop and fender were done all that was left was the seat pan. I always make my seat pans by tacking and building right off the subframe. This allows for a clean tight fitment. Once I have the skeleton built I cut it free and skin it with 20ga steel.
So far the Kz440 is coming along nicely! Lets see what we can get into next!! Stay tuned…
Wiring harness is in. You have to love the Shorai battery, small and powerful!
Fully assembled.
I am at the end stages here!! I’m sure a few bugs will show their ugly little heads, but I’ll just deal with that when it happens. Stoked on everything so far though!!!
